The Making Of The Sophisticated Tory Wrap Coat

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Inspiration

Do you remember the first time you discovered a fabric? And that fabric instantly captivated you? I remember when I discovered how wax fabrics were made. My family and I had traveled along a bumpy, dusty road outside of the bustle of Singapore to a hut with local artisans carefully drawing designs on blank fabric with canting and wax. The feeling that what I was witnessing was incredibly special and rare still resonates with me.

Ankara fabric is made in much the same way using a wax relief technique. Quite a few of the Ankara prints have a special meaning, as well. I learned that the circular print I used for the main print is called “Nsu Bura” meaning water well, with more profound implications that like the water ripple everything you do affects everyone around you. An aphorism to keep the wearer humble.

A few weeks before February Nateida and Keira announced a sewing challenge for February, Black History Month Pattern Designers Challenge! Together they have created a yearly challenge to not only highlight Black pattern designers, but to cultivate an incredible sewing community. The details: make something using a pattern made by a Black person, knitting, sewing, purses, etc. and then share it before the end of February!

Pattern & Fabric

Pattern: Tory Wrap coat by Montoya Mayo, found HERE (not an affiliate link, I paid full price for this pattern). The Tory is an unlined wrap coat (or top) that has a semi-fitted bodice and a voluminous circle skirt on the bottom. The closure is an extra long tie that fashions into a fabulous bow.

Fabric: Ankara Wax Print (I forgot where), here are some GREAT Black-owned sources — Afrique Clothing Store, Anu Ankara N More , & AfroThreads. If you are looking for a more comprehensive list Jacinta has made a pretty exhaustive BIPOC & Ally Vendor List, found HERE.

Tools Used

Brother SB3129 Sewing Machine
Babylock Imagine Serger
Cutting Mat (click image for source)
Dressmaking Shears (click image for source)

Pattern Alterations

My measurements put me in between a medium and a large. For the skirt portion, I cut a medium to match my waist measurement. On the bodice, I did a few adjustments that were questionable at best, but they worked out well. I cut the large line of the shoulder seam and blended the armscye line down to the medium cut line. I also cut the side seams of the back bodice on the medium cut line, but cut the side seams of the front bodice on the large cut line.

Are you still with me? Why did I do this? My bust measurement put me in the large size range and I wanted to make sure the garment had enough ease to accommodate. I did have to make a pleat in the bust area to fit a large bodice into the medium skirt. At this point, it may seem like I’m completely winging it. I promise I’m following the instructions, sort of.

The pattern did not indicate a height for which the pattern was drafted, but being 5’10” I usually add length to the bodice. For this pattern, I added 1.25″ to the bodice length.

Pattern Thoughts

The Tory Wrap Coat is Montoya’s first released pattern. The instructions were well thought out with helpful notes and visuals of seam allowances and other recommended techniques to ensure a quality end result. I appreciate the extra effort to include line drawings in the instructions as opposed to photos of the instruction step. The seam allowances are industry standard and are clearly indicated when a different seam allowance is required. Montoya even included a fabric layout, which was a pleasant surprise and something I do not expect in indie patterns.

I would rate the difficulty level of the Tory Wrap Coat as easy. The coat is unlined and the instructions have the sleeves set in flat, which is the trickiest part. The only advanced part is the understanding that you will need to finish your raw edges as you construct the garment. I usually run exposed fabric edges through my serger, but this may not be apparent to a beginner. Another option is to finish the raw edges with bias tape, like I did for the pocket bags and armscye.

Earlier, I mentioned that the pattern did not indicate the height for which the pattern was drafted, the pattern does have the center back length measurement included in the finished garment. The pattern also does not include alteration lines (like lengthen/shorten). This is not a negative to me, though. The pattern lines make it easy enough to be able to make your standard alterations, just remember to add back the seam allowance and to true the pattern lines.

Would I sew it again? Absolutely! I already have plans to sew up view A for a summer top in a lightweight rayon voile type fabric.

Cost Breakdown

Pattern $14.99 Fabric (6 yards) approx. $60
Notions $10

Labor = Hours * Living Wage ($22.12)

Preparing Pattern 2.5 hrs
Altering Pattern .5 hrs
Cutting Fabric 1 hrs
Sewing 4 hrs

TOTAL HOURS 8

Labor = 8 * 22.12 = $176.96

Subtotal $261.95

Tax Rate 9%

TOTAL $285.53

I used the living wage calculator from MIT, link HERE.

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